The perfect stencil for earrings - a tutorial for you!

Use the Bails stencils to create beautiful earrings in this free tutorial

The Bails stencils can be used to make beautiful earrings.... so here's just one possible idea (with a few variations!)

Bails stencils from the Jeweller's Bench Shop on Etsy

You will need:

Materials:

  • Sterling silver large enough for 4 of your chosen shape. A thickness of 0.6mm-0.7mm is ideal
  • 0.8mm (20 gauge) wire for the earwires. I used two 5.5cm lengths
  • A rolling mill texture sheet (I used the Watercolour Leaves 2 Medium texture). Alternatively, texture your silver with a hammer.
  • Optional: stone or halfdrilled pearl for the bottom of the earring, plus the materials to set the stone/pearl in.

Equipment:

  • Soldering Kit
  • Jeweller's saw and bench peg
  • Flat file and emery paper
  • Bails 1 or Bails 2 stencil (depending on the shape you want!) and sharpie
  • Nylon jaw pliers, flat nosed pliers, wire cutters
  • Planishing (rounded) hammer and bench block
  • Doming block and wooden punch
  • Rolling Mill (unless you choose a hammered

And here's how to do it!

texture enough silver for 4 of your chosen shape
Use the stencil to mark them out. Saw out the shapes. File and sand to refine them.
curve each shape in a doming block, putting the textured side down.
1. Anneal the silver and texture it
with the texture sheet and rolling mill.
2. Choose a shape from the Bails
stencil and mark four of them on
the silver sheet. Saw each shape out. 
File and sand the edges to refine the shapes
and make them lovely and smooth.
3. Add a curve to each shape with
the texture on the outside of the
curve. I used the largest dish on my
doming block, but shaped nylon pliers 
or even bending the silver around a 
suitable curve will do the trick. 
Use a wooden punch with the
doming block to protect the texture.
File flat spots on the inside of each shape fo stronger solder joins.
Solder pairs together with medium solder

Solder earwires in place at one end with easy solder.

4. File flat across the back of each
silver shape. This will create small flat 
areas at the edges of the shapes. 
These are the areas that will form the 
solder join, and making them wider 
makes the joins stronger.
5. Apply medium solder just inside
each solder join on one shape.
I prefer solder paste for this job as
it's tackiness helps both silver and
solder stay in place until the solder flows!
Add a second shape on top. Sit the pair 
on a solder brick, supporting with pennies
or similar if needed. Solder the pair
together. Repeat with the second pair 
of shapes. Quench and pickle the shapes.
6. Use a file or small ball burr to
create a small divot in the middle of
one end of each of the newly
soldered shapes. This creates seats
for the earwires, making those
solder joins stronger.
Cut a suitable length of 0.8mm wire and 
use easy solder to solder one end
in the divot created above.
Repeat with the second earring.
 


7. At this stage you can shape the earwire,
polish your new earrings and wear them
out to meet a friend for coffee -
or you can get more creative!
How about threading a pretty bead on
the earwire (before you bend it)
so that it sits on the silver shape?
Or perhaps add a tube set stone
or a bezel setting
either above or below the silver?
Or maybe solder a post for a half-drilled pearl
or bead beneath the earring?


If you're looking for more earrings inspiration 
have a look at these classes...



Dotty Box Earrings video tutorial
Petal Earrings video tutorial
52 earrings spring edition video tutorials
Dotty Box Earrings
Petal Earrings
Spring Edition of the 52 earrings project
Learn how to make hollow boxes - 
they're great for pendants too!

A quick project that uses silver left over from other projects.

The 52 earrings project resulted in 52 earring designs in one year. Enrol in just the Spring Edition, or go for the full year here.

Categories: : earrings tutorial, jewellery tutorial, tool talk

Joanne Tinley

Tutor and Founder of The Jeweller's Bench

The Jeweller's Bench is run by Joanne Tinley. She has been making her own jewellery for as long as she can remember and left her first career as a school teacher to set up business as a  jewellery designer and tutor nearly 20 years ago. She is
self-taught and like many people started with wire and beads. Learning how to solder, however, opened up a whole new world of jewellery making,  one that she is keen to share!